In the months since my last hiking post, we have continued to take advantage of the many rutas de senderismo in País Vasco. Before I dive into our recent coastal hikes, here’s a quick review of other hikes we took in February and March.
Mount Pagasarri
We first did this hike with a guide 4.5 years ago and I do not recall it being so difficult! [This is surprising, given that our trip coincided with Aste Nagusia, Bilbao’s annual festival, and we participated fully in the activities. I can guarantee that our bodies were not in prime condition for a rigorous hike that week!]
In February it was a 10 mile round trip route from our apartment, with a total ascent of 2,380 feet. While taking a break at the top, we nearly lost our snacks to a herd of goats. Luckily some fellow hikers alerted us of the threat before our queso was stolen!
Larreineta
By far the best part of this adventure was the trip on the Funicular between La Escontrilla and Larreineta [and the views from a nearby observation point.]
After we arrived in Larreineta we hiked to an area called Parkotxa Urmalea and took a look at El Tenedeor Gigante. Sadly, by the time we returned to the mirador, a rainstorm was blowing-in and we needed to run for cover. As a result, we didn’t get to fully appreciate the views. [Though I’m sure we’ll return soon!]
Mount Artxanda
While you can ride a funicular to/from Artxanda as well [and we have a few times], it’s also a great spot to hike to within the city limits of Bilbao. The views of the skyline and the surrounding mountains are stunning on a clear day and there are no shortage of great viewpoints and picnic areas where you can enjoy a beverage or a snack. The circular route from our apartment is five miles, and includes stops at Parque Etxebarria and Salbeko Zubia, both of which have great views themselves.
at the start of the hike.
Coastal Wanderings
Although Bilbao is not situated directly on the coast, it is located only about 10 miles in-land from the Bay of Biscay. The city itself is connected to delightful coastal communities by a terrific public transit system and we have been grateful to be able to take every possible opportunity to use the metro/buses to access these amazing routes.
Playa de Sopelana to Arrigunagako Hondartza
We first did this hike on an unseasonably warm Valentine’s Day and fell in love with the amazing views along the way. Unlike the section between Sopelana and Plentzia, this portion of the route is fully paved. [And therefore free from treacherous mud puddles!]
The first time we took this route we started at the Bidezabal Metro station, which is about a half an hour ride from our apartment. However, after spending an afternoon at the Playa de Ereaga recently, we found that the beach-front bars on that side of the route are a great place to enjoy a beverage on a sunny day. The two times I/we have taken this route since then, we’ve started at the Larrabsterra Metro station and hiked in the opposite direction, closing the day with copas above Arrigunagako Hondartza before metroing back to the city.
Perhaps the best part of the trail are the benches placed on the cliffs overlooking the Bay. One of our new favorite activities is hiking part of this route, then stopping on a bench to enjoy a snack and a beverage, before hiking the rest of the way and relaxing on the beach. [Conveniently, the start and end points of this route are both beaches!]
Plentzia towards Askorriagako Gotortokia
Plentzia, a small town located at the end of one of Bilbao’s metro lines, has beautiful beaches. So, on a warm weekend in April, when we’d already spent afternoons at two of the nearer beaches that we enjoy, we decided to venture farther and pair it with a hike. The route starts with a walk along the aforementioned beaches, before joining a hillside trail.
When we started the hike, it was a bit chilly. But the day was definitely warming up as we walked. We decided not to go all of the way to Askorriagako Gotortokia, instead opting to return to Plentzia to lay on the beach. [Though that was short lived, as a cold front soon blew in off of the Bay and forced us to retreat to Bilbao.] However, before turning back we found a wonderful clearing with views of the coast where, to no one’s surprise, we stopped to have a beer.
Bakio to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, an hermitage site along the coast that dates back centuries, was made famous a few years ago thanks to Game of Thrones. While we aren’t fans of the show, we obviously love coastal hikes, so we spent a weekend visiting Bakio and hiking from the town to the site. The hike to the site itself was simple: while there were plenty of elevation changes, it was along a paved road without much traffic. The more treacherous element was beyond the entry point to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, where the path became cobblestone until you arrive at the 241 steps that you must take to reach the actual hermitage.
Prior to taking the hike, we weren’t sure how far along the trail the ticketed entry point was. [AllTrails lists the round-trip as 3:15.] We left our hotel a little less than two hours before our entry time, planning to stop for a beer along the way. As it turns out, the entry is much closer to Bakio than I’d thought, so we arrived about 45 minutes before our ticketed time. We were told that we couldn’t enter for another half-an-hour, so we decided to wander a bit farther along the route towards Bermeo and see what we might fight. This ended-up being the best part of the hike, as we found a picnic area with a great view of the site where we were happy to enjoy another beer. We liked it so much that we returned to the spot to eat our lunch after visiting the hermitage!
With the arrival of warmer weather, we will certainly continue exploring the trails of País Vasco. As we do, I’ll try to post more consistently. Six is a lot of trails for a single post. If you’ve made it this far, I appreciate your commitment!
Hi Patricia!
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